Fitting the frame to the subject

I choose this gate to photograph as it was accessible from close up and from a distance. This was an interesting exercise as it does show the effectiveness of filling the frame and also moving in even closer only photographing part of a subject. I think this definitely concentrates the eye and reduces the risk of being distracted by foreground or background clutter and I prefer these photos for that reason. Robert Capa, one of the greatest war photographers said "If your photos aren't good enough, you're not close enough". Capa was implying physical "closeness" but today it is easier to get closer because of sophisticated zoom lenses. Cropping photos is also a useful tool to get rid of distracting features in a photograph.

Panning with different shutter speeds

I didn't have very much success doing this technique. I tried to photograph sea-gulls who I think were too fast for me! I found it difficult to keep tracking the birds in the middle of the frame whilst I moved the camera. From looking at other photographs using this technique I think that a slight blurring gives more of a sense of speed. I think I will try and practise this technique more as it gives a very different effect from freezing a subject with a fast shutter speed.

I have learnt from this exercise and from reading the "Digital Photograph" magazine that it is best to use a relatively slow shutter speed to track the subject in a single fluid movement. The correct shutter speed is also determined by how fast the subject is moving. It would also appear to be best to stand parallel to the subject if possible as positioning is key to successful panning.

Shutter speeds

I finished up taking a large number of photos of a nearby river and spotted this mini waterfall. This photo was taken on a setting of 1/10 sec with an aperture of f11. I learnt that any longer exposure completely over exposed the subject. From doing this exercise and a bit of research I learnt that a slow shutter speed of any less than this was impossible as I was taking photographs in the bright midday sun. I now realise that it is easier to take long exposure photographs when there is less light i.e in the early morning or at dusk. I have also learnt that a Neutral Density filter would have helped as it can reduce the strength of light hitting the camera sensor which can force the shutter speed to lengthen.

From viewing all the photos I have taken I would say that the slowest shutter speed in which the water was sharply frozen is probably between 1/250 and 1/500 of a sec.

Focus at different apertures

For this exercise I focused on a stack of wood I have in my garden and took the photos at an angle. I took photos with different aperture sizes from f2.8 to f11 and my camera automatically adjusted the shutter speed as I set it at aperture priority. I was obviously able to vary the depth of field by changing the aperture size, with f11 giving the greatest depth of field. The photographs showed an obvious difference when I compared the ones taken with an aperture of f2.8 and f11. I could clearly see and mark where the limit of sharpness disappeared so this was a helpful exercise. I am already familiar with depth of field from previous studying and realise it is a fundamental aspect of photography.

Exercise Focus with a set aperture

I choose to photograph a row of daffodils focusing on the different distances. The photos were taken with a set aperture of f5.6 and 1/250.

I prefer the first image with the focus on the daffodils in the foreground and the blurred background of daffodils in the distance (although it is difficult to see this in these small images). In the first photograph the sharpness of the daffodils stand out well against the foliage in the foreground which makes it preferable to me.

I realise that the first photograph is akin to using a narrow depth of field but it was interesting to get a similar effect by varying the focusing. It makes me realise that I have got too used to using the using the auto focus on my camera which is less versitle!

Exercise Focal length and angle of view

I took the three not particularly exciting photos above with the focal lengths of 7.40 mm, 11.60mm and 88.80mm respectively.

As per the exercise I adjusted the lens so that the two views appeared equal in the middle photo through the view finder. According to the 35 mm focal length equivalent data for the middle photo I was slightly out from the standard view of 50 mm as it read 67 mm.

I realised too late from reading the exercise that I should have gone back to the view with printed photos to compare the result but unfortunately this was not possible. I have however learnt that with a focal length of 88.80mm in the third photograph and an aperture of F/5.6 that it was not possible to take a clear photo. I assume with the tree in the foreground the camera focused on that and the narrow depth of field did not allow the clock to be in focus.

The focal length obviously determines how much I can get in the frame. The shorter the focal lenght the greater the width of view and conversely the wider the focal length the greater the magnification so there is less in the shot.